Sunday, March 25
After our cemetery visit we followed Salish Sea on the next
hitch up the Baja. The calm conditions at Agua Verde belied a strong northwest
downslope blow from mountains above the shallow bight a couple of miles north. Ian radioed us to get ready for the
wind, a close reach. True to short-handed cruiser form, we set only half the
genny and bounced along happily at up to 7 knots for several miles. Passing a
sea mount miles off shore called White Rock we thought of Nonquitt waters and
our seafaring relatives.
Puerto Escondito has a natural harbor big enough to shelter
over 150 boats in a hurricane. Unfortunately several years ago the wonderful
Fonatur (federal agency for fomenting tourism) had a bright idea of setting up
a large scale tourist destination with a fancy marina. They paved roads,
installed amenities like sidewalks and streetlamps and then ran out of money.
Now, as in San Blas, there is a half empty marina business mall. Here there’s
no phone service and no internet except at the restaurant, a bright spot on the scene. Between the highway and the marina is a big flat plain covered with cement where condos weren’t built.
Other relics of the boom days included toilets with a view!
We anchored off the fuel dock, a short ride by dinghy.
Everyone grabbed a computer and their laundry. Charlie, like the proverbial pig
in you know what spent the rest of the day at the restaurant catching up on his
web life and drinking long cold margaritas. The next day we walked a mile to the little grocery store that serves the local campground. Clean and provisioned we were ready for another week on the hook.
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| Salish Sea in Puerto Escondito with Giganta Range in the background. |
As we powered into a steep chop in the channel off Loreto, Charlie noticed we had cell service. What a surprise! I had just completed a
long email via our Winlink (radio) communication to Martine and Fred, but we
called and had a great chat. Anchoring off the south end of Isla Coronados protected
us from the north wind but wasn’t conventient for visiting the island.
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