Monday, April 9, 2012

Cruising with the Outlaws


KC revels in our private tropical cove.
(Also a portrait of the new cutter jib bag.)

April 2-5

It’s been grand to have Martine’s parents, KC and Kirk, in Baja during their vacation. They brought their land yacht to Puerto Escondito for three nights’ cruise with us in the nearby islands starting with, well, actually sitting out a windy afternoon in the anchorage. But the wind did abate and by 4 we were bouncing across the three mile channel to Honeymoon Bay on tall, skinny Danzante Island. There are three small niches in the northwest corner of the island shallow enough for anchoring. As we approached we could see tents on the tiny beaches, a raft of kayaks on one, and a giant powerboat anchored and shore tied. It was the beginning of Semana Santa, Easter Week, when everything closes in Mexico for a national week of vacation and travel!

The space doesn't look narrow here, but it felt as if we could touch the cliff.
We cruised the cove, at first dismissing the one boat wide “slip” with the white sand and perfect tropical blue water, frighteningly sandwiched between two rock faces, but as the wind grew calmer, we decided we too would stern anchor in order to perch in this dramatic spot. When the boat was secure we ventured ashore to climb one of the hills on the island.


Some public spirited enviro group had added an elegant effect by lining trails with small rocks and putting up signs to identify the shrubs, only about three of them, but it’s a good gesture.



The outlaws practice every night, no matter how small the 
dance floor.
KC's shells and starfish on Gratitude's
plastic table cloth, not the sea bottom.

The next day we headed out to Punta Colorada on Isla Carmen where we knew the snorkeling was good. KC and Kirk found a poisonous rock fish along with the friendly angelfish, puffers and so on. 

She brought back some terrific shells for a centerpiece. 

Just before sundown two groups of kayakers arrived, set up a camp kitchen and tents making us feel a bit pampered as we enjoyed the comfort of Gratitude’s cockpit cocktail lounge and foredeck dance floor.




Isla Coronados anchorage with the Giganta Range and Loreto across the channel, volcanic scree underfoot.
Our third day was spent on Isla Coronados, the most beautiful of the conveniently close islands, only 18 miles from PE. As we putted in to anchor, the shore was covered with pangas and families that had motored over for a day at the beach from Loreto. But by the time we got ready to go in for an evening drink and hors d's, the crowd had gone home. It was just one empty palapa and us racing another sailboat’s dinghy to the beach. When Charlie in his engaging way offered to share the palapa with them, we found out that they would love having their photo taken as we would too. We had a delightful visit with these sailors from Mexico City, in a beautiful sloop, Alas a los Vientos, unusual in our experience where most Mexican pleasure boaters who can afford a nice boat have motor yachts. 

Cocktail hour on the beach.
Charlie limbered up the hammock for the first time
and shot a movie of KC swinging.
Isla Coronados has a volcanic cone almost 1000 ft tall. In the morning we climbed about half way up over rocks that had showered down from the eruption long ago for a grand views of the island. 

KC and Kirk had kindly offered to drive us up to Loreto and drop us off for a little sightseeing. We buttoned up Gratitude, leaving her triple tied to the half rotten buoy pennant in Puerto Escondito. The Outlaw Cruise was much too short, but otherwise its only shortcoming was a lack of sailing breezes.

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