A Cruisers' Guide to Santa Catalina Island

Avalon Harbor with Wrigley's Casino on the far shore.

May 16-19

Cruising southern California style requires a linear approach, sailing up or down the coast from one navel-like harbor, manmade and marina lined, to the next, unless you jump off to the Channel Islands at Santa Barbara or head to Catalina. Having zipped past on the way down, we chose to spend our bonus days whilst awaiting Yachtpath’s (ever retreating) loading date checking out "the island of romance."

Music has informed many non-Californians of the offshore island most visited by folks from LA to San Diego. We learned that Santa Catalina was 26 miles across the sea (from the 4 Preps!) and from Al Jolson (lifting a melody from Puccini) that Avalon is beside the bay where flying fishes play. In contrast to this romantic view, California cruisers we’ve consulted often scoff at the commercialism of the place and advise against a visit. However pre-Memorial Day appeared a fairly low key window for us.

On the way over we didn’t see a single flying fish. Instead we found amazing the number of mylar balloons shining on the water. We picked up several to throw out and later learned from the Harbor patrol that they are a constant problem around here.

Avalon, actually a city, supports the largest harbor on the island. There are over 200 mooring balls set with bow and stern ties to squeeze in as many visiting boats as possible. The town wasn’t known for much until Mr. Wrigley (of chewing gum fame) decided that he wanted to buy the island and make it available to all for fun and entertainment. Mr. Wrigley owned the Cubs baseball team in Chicago. He had a field constructed in Avalon for the Cubs’ spring training. He also built a casino for dances, concerts, plays and movies where many big bands played and the first “talkies” were premiered. A fancy ferry (picture the old Princess Marguerite of Seattle to Victoria fame) brought people from the mainland, welcomed them with bands playing and dancing girls. To add to the glamour, over time more than 100 films were shot on the island bringing a bit of Hollywood flair.

Well, the dancing girls are gone, replaced by plenty of vendors at the end of the town dock. We missed a film festival by a few days and found the enormous mooring field pretty empty. Ashore, the high school kids walking their bi-weekly 4 mile loop for P. E., passed us as we made our way up to the Botanical Garden and monument, a rather strange art deco building built to honor William Wrigley. Along the way we noted a colony of raucous acorn woodpeckers inhabiting the numerous palm and eucalyptus trees. Strange how California has these imported trees lining all the roads, but at least the woodpeckers like them. The Botanical Garden is a collection of cactus from all over the world.

We watched bikers headed uphill to the garden rolling by us without pedaling. Intrigued, Charlie investigated similar parked machines and found they were electric. We had to try them! Renting a couple right at the ferry dock, we took off to check out the roads you can reach from Avalon. It turns out that a Conservancy founded by the Wrigleys owns about 90% of the land and wants it to stay in its original state (except for the non-native plants and bison that old William added to the landscape). There are a lot of good hikes, but few roads beyond Avalon. The bikes took us up to the old Wrigley mansion, Mt Ada, and great views. It’s a very hilly island. A few miles north of town we stopped to watch a family taking their first zipline rides. Our folding bikes stayed in their sail bags below decks unaware of our straying affections.

 Theater interior, designed by Robert Beckman and completed in three months!

Another high point was a behind the scenes tour of the Casino, still owned by the Wrigleys. The murals on the entry walls and inside of the theater are extraordinary. The staff maintain the original 1926 movie projectors and an 85 year old Page pipe organ. Upstairs is a huge ballroom. From the balcony we could look down into the clear waters where bright orange garibaldi fish swam among the 40 foot giant kelp fronds.

Most of the anchorages and hundreds of mooring balls are on the east side of the island. After a few nights at Avalon, we moved up to the other big harbor, Two Harbors, locally knows as “the Isthmus” where we picked up another mooring at Fourth of July Cove. 

Hike from Two Harbors, Gratitude at mooring in 4th of July Cove.

We took a hike across the island to Cat Harbor and then up into the hills returning all hot and dusty for a swim before dinner. A perfect day. 

The Casino fascinated us with a sort of Moorish art deco style and history. It's hard to resist taking hundreds of pix there. Stop looking here if you're not interested.

Mermaid over ticket booth, updated from painted mural to tile just a few years ago

Upstairs Ballroom with stage for musicians, balcony outside.

Original carbon arc movie projectors, still in operation!

Detail from undersea themed outside entry murals

Painted panel with fanciful sea theme at north end 

of entry. Beckman wanted to tile all these panels

 but ran out of time.

Ballroom light detail with rotating reflector "disco ball" before its time!

Another ballroom detail: silver leaf on panel cameo

Page pipe organ in the theater.

Wrigley started a tile company on the
island to manufacture tile for his build-
ings. There are examples everywhere.
The designs and colors are extraordinary.
The war ended this enterprise after 10
very successful years.