Midway Memorial Day

Charlie with helicopter pilot Chuck Smiley. Blades and tail folded on helo behind.

Sunday, May 27
Okay, technically we didn’t choose either Monday, the 28th or the 31^st to celebrate this day. But why should there be only two choices for remembering our wars and warriors? It was sunny, a lovely morning, luring us out before the crowds got bad. Dodging our way through the Portuguese community’s Espritu Santo parade, we drove to free street parking downtown and biked to the Midway, the giant aircraft carrier that dominates the Embarcadero on San Diego’s waterfront.

Great day for sailing in old boats too. View from hangar level.

For seniors the admission was $15, as it turned out a great bargain for an entire day’s entertainment.

When you enter the ship, on the hangar level, you’re handed one of those audio tours. The narrators, in many cases servicemen who lived on the Midway and flew planes and helicopters from its decks, relate specific experiences of their tours of duty. In addition to this audio presence we were surprised to see tables manned by various interest groups including active members of the Navy from mechanics to representatives of the “green” office downtown. They were available to explain their various jobs and projects. We later learned that these volunteers only make an appearance once a year! I talked with the environmental officer a bit about handling of waste products from ships and her department’s restoration efforts on Coronado Island.

A real chip log with lead weights imbedded and knots in
twine visible on spool. The old timer is a nice touch.

Meanwhile Charlie toured the engine room and then, going to the café on the fantail for a sandwich, he encountered several retired volunteers who included him in their conversation. One was Chuck Smiley, a helicopter pilot who had been a leader in getting the city to allow the Midway to become a permanent fixture of the harbor. It took almost ten years to get all the necessary permits and bonds. Chuck was so committed that at one point he signed over his house as collateral! With attendance far exceeding estimates, the Midway is now pulling her weight in ticket sales. None of the original sponsors had to lose a home or even a shirt.

View of the flight deck from the Island with Chuck's Sea King at right.

 Later, on the flight deck, we visited Chuck’s helicopter. He told us about his training for the Apollo 10  splashdown and the dramatic Apollo 13 recovery mission in the Pacific. He showed us his notebook full of newspaper clippings and documents. His narration was also included on the audio tour. We talked with a few other pilots and took tours of both the bridge and the air traffic tower housed in the carrier’s “island”. Every half hour the time in bells rang out on loud speakers and an announcement would sound, for example sending all sailors out on liberty except those on restriction! 8 bells in the afternoon found us sitting on the rough grey deck awaiting a stroke of the baton for the first piece of the Southwest Navy Band, all wind instruments and percussion, playing a concert of symphonic and patriotic compositions. It was a thrill to witness these young professional musicians in their whites playing for the enthusiastic Sunday crowd. Charlie, longing for a Sousa march, was pleased that their encore was The Stars and Stripes Forever, with the piccolo player standing up in front to play her solo!

What a view of this famous huge scale kiss in the park next to the Midway!

La Jolla, uncovering a bit of Helens past

Friday, May 25

Charlie’s mother used to talk about the Bishop’s School, way off in California, where her parents had sent her, all the way from Ipswich, Mass, for somewhat mysterious reasons, to board for a couple of years. I’d seen old photos of her and Charlie’s Great Aunt Helen, who worked at the school, with exotic plants in the background. Although the school didn’t inspire much curiosity in her son, probably due to being a teacher all those years, I harbored a secret desire to see the place.

From Corona del Mar (Balboa YC) we took a bike ride to Laguna Beach, a scenic route along the shore with several miles of trail in the Crystal Cove bluff park. Our destination was a store with the biggest selection of folding bikes in the state! On returning to San Diego we rented a car and drove back to pick up a new folder for me which will fit much more easily into the lazarette. Driving back in heavy traffic on “the Five” didn’t seem like much fun so we took Highway One, aka the PCH, our old friend, with hopes of finding another nice bike ride on the way back to SD.

There was a shady pathway around the
 chapel. Lovely spot for a quiet retreat.

When we got to La Jolla Charlie surprised me by offering to stop at The Bishop’s School. It was late afternoon as we drove through the old town and by now the sun had driven off the rain clouds. The chapel tower, an easy landmark, stood tall at the north corner of the school. We made our way through new construction and found ourselves at the grassy quadrangle with old buildings on one side. A covered walkway bordered with lovely gardens invited us to stroll and look into classrooms and offices. Luckily we encountered a a woman who explained that this had been graduation day and in the evening alumni were coming for dinner. She encouraged our tour. 

Charlie prepares to enter the chapel from the quad.

The chapel door was open. Inside we found plaques on the wall with brass name plates with the name of each graduate.  Sure enough in the ranks of the class of 1924 we found Helen Gould Kimball, Charlie didn’t really know that she had graduated from there. In her day the school was only for girls. Above the benches, where the girls must have sat at least weekly, stained glass windows displayed the crests and mottos of colleges including the “seven sisters” one of which was Vassar, Helen’s (HGK’s) future alma mater. What an interesting way to inspire girls to push on to higher education.

Helen Gould Kimball, Class of 1924

From the school a short ride along a bike trail in La Jolla made us doubly glad to have taken this detour.

Allure of Newport Beach

Allure and Gratitude

May 20

Ha, I thought looking at a sailboat close astern, that can't be a Malo. We were approaching Newport Harbor to berth at the Balboa Yacht Club. We know all the Malos on the west coast and none make this a home port. Charlie came on deck. Now both of us agreed, this WAS a Malo 43, a sister ship of Gratitude.

Slowing our progress I let the other boat pass, waving at the crew, and reading her stern. Allure. Never heard of her. Hmmm. We followed her into the harbor and found her pulling up at Balboa's dock. Great. As soon as we could get ashore, we raced over to introduce ourselves. The owners, Brian and Pat Newton used to live in England where they had not one, but two Malos, first a 39, then this 43 which was later shipped to California. They kindly gave us a tour and we adjourned to the bar for a chat. What fun to discover another member of the clan!

A Cruisers' Guide to Santa Catalina Island

Avalon Harbor with Wrigley's Casino on the far shore.

May 16-19

Cruising southern California style requires a linear approach, sailing up or down the coast from one navel-like harbor, manmade and marina lined, to the next, unless you jump off to the Channel Islands at Santa Barbara or head to Catalina. Having zipped past on the way down, we chose to spend our bonus days whilst awaiting Yachtpath’s (ever retreating) loading date checking out "the island of romance."

Music has informed many non-Californians of the offshore island most visited by folks from LA to San Diego. We learned that Santa Catalina was 26 miles across the sea (from the 4 Preps!) and from Al Jolson (lifting a melody from Puccini) that Avalon is beside the bay where flying fishes play. In contrast to this romantic view, California cruisers we’ve consulted often scoff at the commercialism of the place and advise against a visit. However pre-Memorial Day appeared a fairly low key window for us.

On the way over we didn’t see a single flying fish. Instead we found amazing the number of mylar balloons shining on the water. We picked up several to throw out and later learned from the Harbor patrol that they are a constant problem around here.

Avalon, actually a city, supports the largest harbor on the island. There are over 200 mooring balls set with bow and stern ties to squeeze in as many visiting boats as possible. The town wasn’t known for much until Mr. Wrigley (of chewing gum fame) decided that he wanted to buy the island and make it available to all for fun and entertainment. Mr. Wrigley owned the Cubs baseball team in Chicago. He had a field constructed in Avalon for the Cubs’ spring training. He also built a casino for dances, concerts, plays and movies where many big bands played and the first “talkies” were premiered. A fancy ferry (picture the old Princess Marguerite of Seattle to Victoria fame) brought people from the mainland, welcomed them with bands playing and dancing girls. To add to the glamour, over time more than 100 films were shot on the island bringing a bit of Hollywood flair.

Well, the dancing girls are gone, replaced by plenty of vendors at the end of the town dock. We missed a film festival by a few days and found the enormous mooring field pretty empty. Ashore, the high school kids walking their bi-weekly 4 mile loop for P. E., passed us as we made our way up to the Botanical Garden and monument, a rather strange art deco building built to honor William Wrigley. Along the way we noted a colony of raucous acorn woodpeckers inhabiting the numerous palm and eucalyptus trees. Strange how California has these imported trees lining all the roads, but at least the woodpeckers like them. The Botanical Garden is a collection of cactus from all over the world.

We watched bikers headed uphill to the garden rolling by us without pedaling. Intrigued, Charlie investigated similar parked machines and found they were electric. We had to try them! Renting a couple right at the ferry dock, we took off to check out the roads you can reach from Avalon. It turns out that a Conservancy founded by the Wrigleys owns about 90% of the land and wants it to stay in its original state (except for the non-native plants and bison that old William added to the landscape). There are a lot of good hikes, but few roads beyond Avalon. The bikes took us up to the old Wrigley mansion, Mt Ada, and great views. It’s a very hilly island. A few miles north of town we stopped to watch a family taking their first zipline rides. Our folding bikes stayed in their sail bags below decks unaware of our straying affections.

 Theater interior, designed by Robert Beckman and completed in three months!

Another high point was a behind the scenes tour of the Casino, still owned by the Wrigleys. The murals on the entry walls and inside of the theater are extraordinary. The staff maintain the original 1926 movie projectors and an 85 year old Page pipe organ. Upstairs is a huge ballroom. From the balcony we could look down into the clear waters where bright orange garibaldi fish swam among the 40 foot giant kelp fronds.

Most of the anchorages and hundreds of mooring balls are on the east side of the island. After a few nights at Avalon, we moved up to the other big harbor, Two Harbors, locally knows as “the Isthmus” where we picked up another mooring at Fourth of July Cove. 

Hike from Two Harbors, Gratitude at mooring in 4th of July Cove.

We took a hike across the island to Cat Harbor and then up into the hills returning all hot and dusty for a swim before dinner. A perfect day. 

The Casino fascinated us with a sort of Moorish art deco style and history. It's hard to resist taking hundreds of pix there. Stop looking here if you're not interested.

Mermaid over ticket booth, updated from painted mural to tile just a few years ago

Upstairs Ballroom with stage for musicians, balcony outside.

Original carbon arc movie projectors, still in operation!

Detail from undersea themed outside entry murals

Painted panel with fanciful sea theme at north end 

of entry. Beckman wanted to tile all these panels

 but ran out of time.

Ballroom light detail with rotating reflector "disco ball" before its time!

Another ballroom detail: silver leaf on panel cameo

Page pipe organ in the theater.

Wrigley started a tile company on the
island to manufacture tile for his build-
ings. There are examples everywhere.
The designs and colors are extraordinary.
The war ended this enterprise after 10
very successful years.

Back home in the USA!

The San Diego Customs Dock with the SWYC marina up channel, Pt Loma to the left and beyond.

May 14

Although we arrived in San Diego several days ago, it has taken a while to get past the wonders of living in our own country again and to think about posting. Just for the record, we cast off from here on November 7 and tied up at the Customs dock on May 8, making it six full months in Mexico, the longest time span we’ve ever spent out of the country. (Well, once, before we were married, Charlie managed a 10 month visit to a small SE Asian country, all expenses covered by Uncle Sam.)

Aside from being snugly tied to a dock in flat water, what made being back in the USA so grand? Well, first of all, the Customs people were reasonable. At sea I’d cooked up all the odds and ends of fresh foods into a sublime goulash on which we fed until the last day’s lunch, adding wine to the pot in hopes of diminishing the ship’s stores to a legal limit. Being used to the draconian measures taken at the US-Canadian border, we were delighted to find that the Customs people here don’t even ask about alcohol. All they really cared about was properly displaying our up-to-date US Customs and Border Patrol decal on the boat.

Our friend Frank drove us to Point Loma for a view of San Diego's harbor.

Second, we phoned to see if Southwestern Yacht Club had guest moorage, open right across from the Customs dock. They did! No language struggle to explain the name and size of the boat, and our plans. We were legally admitted to the country and safely tied up all within about an hour of crossing the border!  Then, to add the final a welcoming touch, out of nowhere, a voice shouted, “Welcome to San Diego!” Astonishing us, an SWYC member walked down the dock, holding out his arms and greeted us as the long absent travelers we are. The next day he took us home to do laundry, out grocery shopping and answered questions to help us get set. Incredible.

Small things matter. We notice them every day. I can read all the traffic signs and signs in the stores, speak to anyone on the street and be easily understood. The mail works again! Dinner occurs at the time we’re used to: restaurants have staff and customers at that time. There is India Pale Ale, lots of choices, and terrific local brews. Grocery shopping with a list we find all the items, glow with joy as we see a huge range of green veggies and fruits seldom available over the last half year. At the zoo we could understand spoken directions and informational talks, all of the words!! Sidewalks tend to be continuous and not full of holes, huge steps and broken concrete.  There are big trees, really wooded areas, in town, no cactus forests.

At the zoo we were fascinated by the colobus monkeys sleeping three storeys up. (Zoom in on upper guy.)

I could go on, but suffice it to say we loved our time in Mexico and will always feel kinship with Mexicans as fellow Americans. But it the great words of Dorothy, after seeing Oz, “There's no place like home!”

Turtle Bay Rest Stop

May 5, yes Cinco de Mayo, the day the Mexicans booted the French out!

No more cruising days for this guy. His anti-roll device
is a blue barrel hung off the end of his boom, i.e. Pelican roost.

 This harbor receives the whole Baja HaHa fleet every fall, giving Charlie a great sense of security as we lie anchored here within a couple of hundred yards of ugly reefs, rock walls and 8 or so vessels from the squid fishing fleet. When we arrived it looked as if we’d missed the Going out of Business Sale. Only one other cruising boat was anchored here. Now there are 5 of us and a couple of large power yachts. I guess we were the vanguard.

These guys have much wilder white brows than Puget Sound cousins.

Tomorrow we leave, headed for San Diego and US Customs. Charlie looked at the Magic Seaweed website aka crystal ball and after scrolling numerous times through the 3 hour intervals of the next few days, detemined that tomorrow is THE day.

What does one do for three days in  a place with one restaurant, no markets, community events, etc? We take a daily stroll on the dusty streets, visit the church with wonderful fishing themed stained glass, view immaculate cemeteries, stop at grocery stores, watch the squid fishery, and use the high school’s magnificent internet connection.

I truly appreciate the newly arrived troupe of cruisers with whom we had a beer and yarned away the afternoon at a snack stand on the beach. Tonight is the “Super Moon” expected to be 30% brighter than normal due to its maximum proximity to our planet. We will benefit from the well lit nights as we travel to San Diego.

Mexico, Adios! We’ll be back in Ensenada at the end of the month.

Super moon over our neighbor, a 90 foot cruiser. That was the view, no way to move him out of the photo!